Out In The World - Penghu

A Few Other Pages of Interest

2005-05-11T17:34:00.000-07:00

After seeing these photos, if you find yourself wanting to read more detailed thoughts about my trip to Penghu, visit http://outintheworld.blogspot.com/2005/05/penghu.html. To see photos from other islands around Taiwan, please visit http://outintheworldkinmen.blogspot.com/ and
Lanyu/Green Island. Enjoy!

2005-05-10T06:16:00.000-07:00

On the first day, Natalia and I started out in Makung with a bright blue sky and great hopes for a wonderful trip. It turned out well, though perhaps not as well as it might have as rain sent us home without having had a chance to see much of the main island of Penghu. On the first day, we visited BaiSha and Xi Yu, two large islands that are connected by bridge to each other and to Penghu. Unfortunately, I did not conquer my fear of riding a motor bike on this trip and so a good deal of time was spent waiting for buses on that first day.

2005-05-10T06:13:00.000-07:00

The second picture of the trip, and as blue as the sky would be.

2005-05-10T06:12:00.000-07:00

I either really like this picture or I don't like it at all. I can't tell. It illustrates something I found rather frustrating in Makung. The sidewalks were always cluttered with things, worse even than Taipei, so there was often no choice but to walk in the streets. The streets were not so wide, though, so cars were always coming just a bit too close. It was especially awful in the rain.

2005-05-10T06:10:00.000-07:00

I really like the colors of this chair and of the wall behind it, taken on a bright morning between breakfast and a bus ride.

2005-05-10T06:09:00.000-07:00

Walking around Makung while waiting for our first bus of the day.

2005-05-10T06:07:00.000-07:00

A small neighborhood near the aquarium on BaiSha Island. I wouldn't advise a trip to the aquarium, to be honest, as it has little that can't be seen in the aquarium in Taipei, or for that matter the Living Mall. This was a nice place, though, except for a barking, snarling dog that reminded me of Kinmen and made all the more real my fear of both dogs and of riding a scooter - both irrational, I know. For the next hour or two while we waited for the bus I was exeptionally pissy and I'm sure Natalia was wondering how we could ever possibly travel for months at a time together.

2005-05-10T06:04:00.000-07:00

A splash of color in an otherwise whitewashed world.

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Wall as painting.

2005-05-10T06:02:00.000-07:00

A small tableau I noticed while looking for where exactly we were supposed to sit and wait for more than an hour while flies flew around our feet and the sun grew ever hotter.

2005-05-10T06:00:00.000-07:00

The last picture taken before the bus finally came.

2005-05-10T05:57:00.000-07:00

WaiAn, the southermost town on XiYu (Western Island). This was the pleasant town where Natalia and I ate lunch.

2005-05-10T05:56:00.000-07:00

The harbor in WaiAn.

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I don't know if this was meant to be a bunker or what. I do know that the sand on the beach was quite inviting and that signs said any swimming was done at your own risk due to a lack of lifeguards and rather rough water.

2005-05-10T05:51:00.000-07:00

On the hillside above the beach seen in the previous picture. The hillside was filled with these red and yellow wildflowers, stones, and graves. The road leading from WaiAn had also been spotted with graves and grazing cows. A very peaceful scene.

2005-05-10T05:49:00.000-07:00

An abandoned house filled with bare trees in NeiAn.

2005-05-10T05:48:00.000-07:00

After visiting WaiAn at the very southern tip of Xi Island, Natalia and I walked up the coast to NeiAn where we found several old stone houses filling a difficult to navigate town (though it is so small it would be impossibe not to find your way back to the main road sooner or later).

2005-05-10T05:45:00.000-07:00

Another picture from the maze of narrow lanes running between houses in NeiAn.

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Near the bus stop in NeiAn.

2005-05-10T05:42:00.000-07:00

As we waited (again) for a bus to take us back to Makung, I took a few pictures of the sparsely decorated trees / brush that covered so much of Xi Island.

2005-05-10T05:40:00.000-07:00

On Sunday Natalia and I went to one of the northernmost islands of Penghu, ChiBei. The boat ticket cost about 500 NT (about 16 US) and took about 40 minutes from the port on BaiSha island. There are several islands in the north and these are the focus of beach activities in Penghu. Unfortunately, the weather was not the best on the day that we went there, but we still had a good time listening to Taiwanese guys squeal like little school girls as they rode on 4 wheelers around us. This guy was working on the boat and he caught my eye because of the hat he was wearing - apparently taken from his wife's closet.

2005-05-10T05:35:00.000-07:00

As we were nearing ChiBei. The narrow strip of land between water and sky just visible to the left of the trees is all beach and extends to the edge of the photo.

2005-05-10T05:34:00.000-07:00

Looking up at Natalia from down near the water on the huge beach on ChiBei. At the southern tip of the island is a long spit of sand. This is where people wanting to play in the water come to jet ski, paraglide, and ride four-wheelers. It would be so much better if the beach was not filled with coral, and thus rather uncomfortable to either sit or walk on.

2005-05-10T05:30:00.000-07:00

There were some abandoned buildings and burnt-out carcasses of buildings between the long spit of beach you see in the previous pictures and the main town on ChiBei. There are also several construction projects in various stages of completion and of being forgotten. The is a picture of one of the abandoned buildings.

2005-05-10T05:27:00.000-07:00

An old, weather-beated sign outside a shop on ChiBei.

2005-05-10T05:26:00.000-07:00

A rather strange looking tree on ChiBei. I saw some similar trees on Monday in the south of Penghu as well. Anyone know what there are called?

2005-05-10T05:25:00.000-07:00

Detail of a decoration above a window.

2005-05-10T05:23:00.000-07:00

Behind one of the houses on ChiBei, up near the top of the town.

2005-05-10T05:21:00.000-07:00

As on the other islands around Taiwan, several of the houses are built from stones on ChiBei. This is a close-up of one of the walls of a house.

2005-05-10T05:20:00.000-07:00

After lunch, and before returning to the beach, Natalia and I took a stroll around the main town on ChiBei. The town is built on a small hill which leads to the grasslands and farms that fill most of the rest of the island (you see some of that in the previous picture). This is looking down one of the sloped roads leading back down through the town and to the port.

2005-05-10T05:16:00.000-07:00

This was one of the last pictures I took in ChiBei. I wanted to take a picture of the man who was sitting on the chair, but he did not want that. I think it turned out OK anyway.

2005-05-10T05:15:00.000-07:00

Early Monday morning, a busy day ahead. Standing on the back of a boat and looking out at the North China Sea.

2005-05-10T05:13:00.000-07:00

On Monday Natalia and I took a boat that stopped at four of the islands south of Makung. The cost of each ticket was 650 NT (about $20 US). It was well worth it. I don't know what island this was as we did not stop at it and it was little more than a long strip of land. I tookt his picture from the boat as we headed to the first island on our itinerary.

2005-05-10T05:08:00.000-07:00

Welcome to WangAn Island. This was the first stop on a day long journey to four islands in the southern part of Penghu. Both Natalia and I were taken by the quiet of the island, as well as the scenery. We were both sad when we left, wishing we had more time to soak up the slower than slow pace of life on an island that had as many teachers as students, 100 policemen out of a general population of 800, and firemen that worked two days out of the year. We paid 150 NT for a bus to take us around the island. The first stop was TianTai Hill where everyone but Natalia and I went straight to the top to see a Fairy's footprint set in stone. We walked out off the road and into the fields to take some pictures and enjoy the feel of the wind across our faces.

2005-05-10T04:59:00.000-07:00

Another glimpse at WangAn's landscape.

2005-05-10T04:57:00.000-07:00

While walking away from the group and checking out the countryside, Natalia and I wondered over to this abandoned house and snapped some photos.

2005-05-10T04:55:00.000-07:00

When we went to the top of the hill, there was no one there. While the fairy's footprint was not overly impressive, the landscape was, especially these yellow cactus plants that could be found on several of the southern islands.

2005-05-10T04:52:00.000-07:00

A close-up of one of the cactus plants, this one a few feet away from the rock containing the fairy's footprint.

2005-05-10T04:46:00.000-07:00

Looking out at WangAn.

2005-05-10T04:40:00.000-07:00

A farm whose crops are separated by stone walls. We saw stones used in a similar fashion on many of the islands of Penghu.

2005-05-10T04:39:00.000-07:00

A wall from a house in the village made up of several 300-plus year old houses made from coral. This village was a definite highlight of our visit to WangAn.

2005-05-10T04:33:00.000-07:00

A warning: there are several pictures of doors, windows, and ladders ahead. I find this one quite striking for both the colors of the doors and the cobwebs lacing the bars of the gate.

2005-05-10T04:31:00.000-07:00

This ladder was down a path off the main road through town. Even from about forty feet away, the shadow of the ladder and the geometry of the picture jumped out at me. As we encountered no dogs on the island, I was not at all hesitant to walk down and take the picture.

2005-05-10T04:29:00.000-07:00

I guess this is a similar to a lot of pictures I have taken lately. This was right in the middle of my most recent binge of shooting doors and windows.

2005-05-10T03:30:00.000-07:00

A close up of the coral that was used to build the 300 year old houses that make up this village on WangAn.

2005-05-10T03:28:00.000-07:00

You can get a better idea of this place in the next picture. I think it is this photo that makes it clear why sitting here is a welcoming thought when the thermometer is starting to climb towards 30.

2005-05-10T03:26:00.000-07:00

In a quiet corner of the village of coral houses. A woman with a cart selling water and other drinks. The rest of the people on our bus had long since gone off to the bus and Natalia was back taking pictures she had lost on a faulty roll of film. It was the kind of place I wouldn't have minded sitting for a few hours as the temperature started to rise.

2005-05-10T03:23:00.000-07:00

When the sun is out on the islands around Taiwan, in all the places I have been in Asia, photography becomes all the more exciting with the interplay of light and shadow.

2005-05-10T03:20:00.001-07:00

More windows and strange angles.

2005-05-10T03:20:00.000-07:00

OK, I have them all out of me now...A side note, though - this is about the only screen door I can remember seeing on any of the islands around Taiwan. Then again, maybe I just wasn't looking.

2005-05-10T03:18:00.000-07:00

As we were leaving the village of coral houses, I stopped to take this picture while Natalia bought some nice handmade jewelry from an old man for 200NT.

2005-05-10T03:16:00.000-07:00

A few minutes before departing from WangAn, a stop on the beach. The beach was white sand and coral. It was not as rough as that on ChiPei, but still a bit tough on the feet.

2005-05-10T03:13:00.000-07:00

Welcome to ChiMei (Seven Beauties) Island, named after seven women who supposedly committed suicide to avoid being raped by pirates. The island was the second stop on our tour of the southern islands of Penghu, and was quite beautiful. We paid 150 NT each for a bus ride around the island that unfortunately did not allow much time for wondering off on our own. The island was all jagged coastlines and rock strewn grasslands. A nice place for a visit. It is also possible to stay overnight there.

2005-05-10T03:08:00.000-07:00

One of the first pictures taken on ChiMei, across the street from one of the main tourist sites on the island, a group of seven trees planted in honor of the seven women for whom the island is named. There is also a small (very small) pagoda. I did not go there. I went out to this hillside instead and took some pictures of these graves above the ocean. For the first of many times on the island, I kept our bus driver waiting and the others on the bus waiting.

2005-05-10T03:03:00.000-07:00

The coast around ChiMei seemed to be made up mostly of sheer cliff faces and strange rock formations like this. This was taken near a tourist site, a in the ocean that is called "Little Taiwan" for its resemblance to the island I live on. I seem to have accidentally deleted that picture, though. If you wish, look at a map, get an idea of what Taiwan looks like, and imagine a rock in clear blue water that looks kind of like it.

2005-05-10T03:00:00.000-07:00

A man on a hillside above the ocean, tending to his goats.

2005-05-10T02:59:00.000-07:00

A man, the ocean, and his goats, now without color.

2005-05-10T02:57:00.000-07:00

Another look at the rugged coast line of ChiMei.

2005-05-10T02:56:00.000-07:00

The main road going around ChiMei. This is looking back across the island from near the scenic viewing point for the twin-hearts stone weir that you will see in a few pictures.

2005-05-10T02:54:00.000-07:00

A different view of the previous picture, and with color.

2005-05-10T02:46:00.000-07:00

Looking down a steep hill on the coast of Chimei. There were goats all over the island, grazing on the wild grass.

2005-05-10T02:40:00.000-07:00

One of the things that Penghu is famous for are the stone weirs that fishermen have used for decades to capture fish. The stones are piled up and fish swim into them when the tide is up. When the tide goes out, the fish are trapped inside and the villagers have a much easier time collecting them. This is one of the main tourist sites on ChiMei, as the heart-shaped weirs appeal to the Taiwanese sense of cuteness.

2005-05-10T02:38:00.000-07:00

Fish gutted and opened, drying for I don't know what purpose. Taken as we walked back to the boat to leave ChiMei Island.

2005-05-10T02:35:00.000-07:00

As we strolled through the port area on HuChing Island.

2005-05-09T23:34:00.000-07:00

HuChing (Tiger's Well) Island, between Wangan and Makung is known for these large volcanic rocks, here lining the main road on the small island.

2005-05-09T23:30:00.000-07:00

This is taken atop HuChing island. Another example of the wild grass lands found across Penghu. Also, the rocks strewn across many of the islands. This island is noted for the volcanic rock formations seen in the previous picture, as well as an old Japanese bomb shelter.

2005-05-09T23:27:00.000-07:00

Looking down on the main town on Huching Island. This is looking down from the road leading past the volcanic rock formations you see in previous pictures.

2005-05-09T23:25:00.000-07:00

This was my first hint that atop TongPan we might find something completely unexpected.

2005-05-09T23:24:00.000-07:00

When we arrived on TongPan, and island just to the south of Makung, and named as it is because some people thought it looks a bit like a frying pan, most of our companions went off to see the temple that is TongPan's main claim to fame. Natalia and I chose instead to wonder up some stairs leading up from the small port area that hints at how lifeless TongPan feels. Atop the island, we followed a small path that led us to a collection of overgrown, crumbling houses. With the wind blowing and the sky overcast, it felt as if we had been dropped into something of a post-apocalyptic scene. The half hour we spent exploring the area became, perhaps, the highlight of the trip.

2005-05-09T23:19:00.000-07:00

From this look at the abandoned house atop TongPan, you may not get the feeling of abandonment that being there in person brings. Natalia speculated that in this particular house, someone died, and after that, nothing happened. We could not read the sign on the door, which may or may not have altered our story. An old man we later bought water from said the collection of abandoned houses we viewed behind the main village on TongPan had been built during the Japanese occupation of the islands and had long since been left behind by people moving to the promise of a better life on Taiwan.

2005-05-09T23:14:00.000-07:00

Somehow this bucket made me think of homes I visited in Indiana, warm homesteads where I could be sure a good barbecue would fill my belly and fireflies would light the night sky. To build upon this, there were also some small statues of dwarves lining a crumbling wall next to the house. Of course, these same homey touches multiplied the feeling of emptiness at this particular homestead.

2005-05-09T23:10:00.000-07:00

A forgotten bathroom swallowed by nature, sitting across a small path running past the house that Natalia called the Ghost House.

2005-05-09T23:09:00.000-07:00

Following the path that ran past the previous house, we came to these overgrowns stairs leading down a steep hill to a rocky coastal point. Both Natalia and I got small cuts as we made our way between the cactus plants trying to swallow these stairs. When we walked back to the village, we passed a woman walking her dog. We tried to find out about all of these abandoned houses. Had the people there died, or moved away? The woman answered in grunts and moved on towards these stairs, apparently on her way to find some food.

2005-05-09T23:06:00.000-07:00

Looking between two of the abandoned houses in the old village on TongPan.

2005-05-09T23:05:00.000-07:00

These gloves were about the only sign that anyone had ever lived in this house. They were hanging on the line with a few rags, but from the rest of the things surrounding the home, it seemed no one had been there in years.

2005-05-09T23:04:00.000-07:00

A close-up of a window and a stone wall eaten away by the strong winds that whip through Penghu's islands.

2005-05-09T23:02:00.000-07:00

Looking at three seats that have probably been empty for quite some time. We also saw a leather sofa sitting outside an abandoned house, a few small paw prints in dust the only evidence the couch had been used in years.

2005-05-09T23:00:00.000-07:00

Looking at these empty seats from a slightly different perspective.

2005-05-09T22:58:00.000-07:00

The final picture I took on TongPan island, looking down at some sort of seafood drying on the port.

2005-05-09T22:51:00.000-07:00

The last picture. Looking down at the water under the boat as we returned to Makung.