When we arrived on TongPan, and island just to the south of Makung, and named as it is because some people thought it looks a bit like a frying pan, most of our companions went off to see the temple that is TongPan's main claim to fame. Natalia and I chose instead to wonder up some stairs leading up from the small port area that hints at how lifeless TongPan feels. Atop the island, we followed a small path that led us to a collection of overgrown, crumbling houses. With the wind blowing and the sky overcast, it felt as if we had been dropped into something of a post-apocalyptic scene. The half hour we spent exploring the area became, perhaps, the highlight of the trip.